6 Simple Ways to Grow Your Handmade Business Now!

The HOLIDAYS are coming, and for many of you, its the busiest season!  Try these simple ideas you can implement right away to improve your sales.

1.  Be your billboard 
   Wear the scarf you made, have your kids wear their cute beanies, just use your product the way your customer would.  You may be surprised how many potential customers you'll gain when people see your products in action.  Be sure to have business cards in your bag.  
2. Gift
   This makes others happy and makes them billboards too.  So your shop was slow in December?  Grandma needs a gift?  She likes that purple cowl?  Everyone wins.  
3. Donate
   When you donate an item from your shop to a charitable event, its tax deductible.  You can choose the event that works for you.  For example, my yarn may not be in demand locally, but I'm from a very artsy town in Washington State, so I donate to a youth organization's charity auction there.  I get exposure and they make some moola for a great cause.  
4. Barter
   Everyone seems to run short on cash at some point in the Holiday season, with gifts still to acquire!  Help your pocketbook AND your shop by bartering.  Swapping with another shop owner will get your product in the hands of a potential customer and helps BOTH of your businesses gain exposure.  I often swap for handmade gifts and promotional items for my yarn orders.  
5. Let others see 
   No one enjoys the constant stream of MLM posts from Facebook "friends", but people do like to hear about your real hobbies, interests, and day to day life.  Is your son trying on all the girly hats you're shipping out?  Post a pic.  Is your mailman drowning in pretty new materials for your shop?  Post a pic!  That stuff isn't annoying or sales pitchy.  
6. Make new friends
   I know, you're so busy, but a little stress relief is good!  Go out with the mommy group.  Get involved with the knitting club.  Make time for the support group.  Your profession is a big part of your life and others like to hear about what you do.  You don't need to invite anyone to make a purchase.  I never do.  That is me time, not shop time.  Someone may ask for a business card or tell a friend about your work.  I've had a few support group moms buy my yarn because they genuinely like it and that feels nice.  

Etsyversary No. 4

The Fine Lime turns FOUR on Friday!  I'd like to announce the FOUR fabulous ways we will be celebrating this year!

1.  An Etsyversary coupon code, valid now through Wed. July 1st, is THEFOURTH and will save you $4 on any order!
2.  GIVEAWAYS on four social media platforms!  One winner in each place.  Be sure to follow thefinelime on Instagram, @thefinelime on Twitter, The Fine Lime Yarn Co. on Google+, and The Fine Lime on Facebook!
3.  A PENNY AUCTION on my facebook page on June 26th.
4.  An Etsyversary coupon code on June 26th ONLY - FOURLIMES.

** all coupon codes will be valid in my Etsy shop, Etsy Preview Album, and SUPERDUPERDEALS album (which will make for some crazy great prices!)

I'm hoping to have a dye day photo this week to celebrate as well.  I hope you enjoy all the fun and best of luck to you in the giveaways!  

What the WPI?

My yarn listings include WPI . . . and a lot of people aren't familiar with that!  What Part Ice?  When Purling Information? 

WPI means WRAPS PER INCH.  What it boils down to is how many times it takes the yarn to make one inch.  So if I have a yarn labled 8 WPI, it means it takes 8 strands of that yarn to make an inch - that yarn averages about 1/8 of an inch wide. 

Why do I include that information?  Well, I noticed on Ravelry that a lot of pattern writers include the WPI desired for gauge.  If you know the WPI of the yarn suggested, you can swap in another yarn of similar thickness without having to change your hook/needle size or number of stitches. 

How do you figure out WPI?  Well, the best way is actually NOT to wrap the yarn around a ruler.  Because 1. That is tricky and 2. You'll have a tendency to pull the yarn tight, making it look skinnier than it is.  So the best way is to put your yarn gently on the ruler to count.  You will want to cover 2 - 3 inches with handspun so you can get a good average. 

WPI - Knowledge is yarn swapping power!  

This is the WPI tool I use.  You do NOT need a special tool.  Its just less cumbersome and easier to hide from my children! 

You can just use any ruler (as pictured below.) 

I Wanna Touch It!

Oh, how I wish you could!  I really, really, wish you could just reach through your screen and pet the yarns in my shop (with clean hands, of course!) 

A question I'm frequently asked is, "how soft is this yarn?  Is it softer than cheap acrylic yarn?  Is it as soft as my favorite craft store yarn?" 

Well, I do try to give you that info in the listings . . . but knowledge is power!  So, I'm going to fill you in on the details about micron count, how I decide if a fiber is next to skin soft, and a quick overview of fibers I use in order of softness. 

MICRON COUNT
No, not the techie kind . . . the fiber kind!  Micron refers to a measurement - a teeny tiny measurement! - of the diameter of just one fiber.  Finer fiber - or fiber with a smaller diameter - is generally going to be softer than a fiber with a higher micron number.  So if soft is your thing, you're looking for a low number, not a high one.  (Think baby fine hair as opposed to my wiry, coarse hair!)  

HOW SOFT IS IT?  
In my listings you will see the following descriptors -

• Not next to skin soft - this fiber is itchy.  It just is.  Its still fun yarn, but don't make a cowl out of it.  It might be best to use as trim or for an item you don't wear on your skin. 
• Next to skin soft for some - this fiber is just a little itchy if I lay it on my arm.  It might not bother you one bit, but its just a little coarse for this sensitive skinned lime! 
• Next to skin soft for most - this fiber is a little itchy for my neck, but soft and lovely on my arm.  If I were making something with it, I might not choose a scarf or cowl, but just about anything else would be lovely. 
• Next to skin soft - this fiber feels luxurious and soft, even on my neck.  I might also call this yummy. 
• More than next to skin soft - I would bathe in this.  Seriously soft. 

You will probably notice that I like to work with fibers that are next to skin soft for most or softer. 

FIBER GUIDE

*remember, each sheep or other cute critter will have its own style!  This is just a general guide based on the samples I've gotten my greedy fiber mitts on.* 

• Corriedale/Domestic Wool/Superwash Wool/Jacobs/Shetland/Romney/Other Farm Wools - these are often nameless breeds, a mix of wools, or ones you won't have heard of.  Springy and durable, they'd make great socks or other items that see a lot of wear and tear.  These are usually in the 24 to 28 micron range. 
• Punta Wool - This is usually pretty soft!  Its a blend of wool breeds from South America, and the batch I get does make a difference, but we're usually looking at next to skin soft for most or next to skin soft.  This is my favorite economical option for people who are on a tight budget wanting to use handspun yarn.  Usually Punta is 22 to 24 micron. 
• Superwash BFL Wool - sometimes the chemical processed used to make fiber machine washable also makes it a little less soft.  See the next entry for more info about BFL Wool. 
• BFL Wool - Blue Faced Leicester wool is curlier than merino.  It is just slightly less soft.  It often has a subtle sheen. 
• Polwarth Wool - A merino bred with a little bit of Lincoln, this fiber is longer and curlier than merino too and just slightly less soft.  The polwarth I purchase is usually 21 to 23 micron. 
• Ramboulliet Wool - Another breed with just a little longer fiber than merino, but just as soft.  I've usually gotten Ramboulliet that is 21 micron. 
• Superwash Merino Wool - I usually buy superwash lambswool merino, but sometimes not.  This will usually be just slightly less soft than merino, but if its lambswool, sometimes its just as soft! 
• Merino Wool - This is one of the softest wools I get my hands on.  Most merino spinners use is between 18 and 22 micron. 

Other fine wools I get to work with from time to time include Finn, Cormo, Targhee, and Columbia.  These will often be as soft as BFL all the way to softer than merino. 

Other luxe, insane soft fibers you may see include yak, cashmere,
camel, angora bunny, cria (baby) alpaca, silk, bamboo, milk protein fiber, and tencel.  

 
I use alpaca sometimes.  Alpaca can vary in softness.  I try to get my hands on the soft stuff, though!  (18 to 23 micron.) 

Sometimes I use nylon.  It can be crazy soft - like faux cashmere - or a workhorse nylon for sock blends. 

A word on sparkle - I personally find firestar less poky than angelina . . . neither are "ohmygoodnesscrazysoft" but sometimes you just need some sparkle!